WINTRY TALES FROM THE APENNINES

Out There & In Here

  • Did Haile Selassie also make it to Abruzzo ?

    by JM

    Natural beauty is great but I find it can often get pretty dull, and there’s a limit to how many times you can drive round the Abruzzo Apennines and still be awed by the same mountains again and again, even though the things on them like snow, trees, flowers – and even grass – are in constant change.

    There’s no chutzpah or dopamine fix involved in watching the grass grow, that’s for sure ( I prefer to think of myself more as the Maserati and Greenwich Village type ), but I suppose you do get the odd wolf or hawk to liven things up a bit at times.

    Meeting someone like Marco, here in his shop in the tiny hamlet of Collimento, away up in the middle of nowhere, also adds some zest to these beautiful but repetitive mountain drives.

    As he was carefully scooping maize flour into glossy bags ‘for the Roman tourists at this time of year, they come to ski, ‘ Marco told me that his business has its roots in Ethiopia, which I liked as another quirky and incongruous little scoop to round off the day.

  • Bitcoin, Brits & Abruzzo

    by JM

    A great friend of mine in the Cotswolds told me yesterday that her neighbours had been round for Christmas drinks and she’d had to escape alone to the kitchen after telling one of them that she was so bored with listening to him ‘droning on for hours about his bloody bitcoin losses’ that ‘ even loading up the dishwasher was more interesting.’

    *

    The English travel writer Eric Newby (1919-2006 ) escaped from a prisoner of war camp in Abruzzo during WWII, and one of the reasons I came to live and work in this region was the photo on this edition of his memoir. Also I liked the title – prophetic perhaps – and the book itself, of course.

  • It’s not what you think

    by JM

    (It’s just 10 seconds)

    Happy as I had been for hours today reading the Sunday papers at the fireside here in Abruzzo, my Calvinistic upbringing eventually compelled me to Get Off My Backside around 3pm and I took a fast motorway drive to the other side of the mountain in the image below. Translated into English it’s called – as many mountains are – the ‘Big Horn’ ( Corno Grande ).

    It may be a common name for a mountain, but it’s the only version you get in Italy, and it’s here in the region of Abruzzo. Also, bleak, isolated villages like this one give everything around here the other-worldy quality I love.

  • Roosevelt on St Stephen’s

    by JM

    I learnt recently that Roosevelt gave ‘Fireside Chats’ on the radio every Sunday evening between 1933 and 1944. I have no intention of boring you to tears with 11 years of idle chitchat, but I quite like that folksy Mom and Pop idea ( ‘couthie’, to use a Scots word ), and I am actually sitting at the fireside here in deepest coldest bleakest Abruzzo, chatting to you – for a few seconds anyway.

    Abruzzo is a region in Italy, and Italy is still a generally Catholic country, so it’s difficult not to be aware of the various saints’ days and Christian traditions. Today it’s the turn of St Stephen, whose cruel means of murder reminds me of the ‘not throwing the first stone’ aspect of things.

    In Ireland though, December 26 is celebrated as Wren Day, and that looks much cheerier: https://www.irishtimes.com/ireland/2023/12/27/those-that-went-before-us-kept-it-going-from-generation-to-generation/

    Wren Day – no stoning to death on the Emerald Isle

  • ..til we go viral… :-)

    by JM

    ..a Christmas arrangement from this morning to thank you for taking the time and interest to read this blog

  • Clamjanfrie from deepest, coldest Abruzzo

    by JM

    Up here in the mountains of Abruzzo, one of the coldest and most isolated regions of Italy, it’s not your dolce vita, spaghetti, sunshine and Maseratis. It’s not sophisticated or sleek, and gorgeous young people don’t laugh and flirt in the vibrant sunlit streets from morning til night. Granny isn’t nattering with her matronly pals and shelling beans in some shady corner, and mamma certainly isn’t gazing lovingly for hours over a simmering sugo in the kitchen.

    No, Abruzzo’s none of that glib claptrap at all, and if you have the patience and interest ( and if I do too), I’ll write us little stories about other kinds of Italy.

    No glib claptrap for Abruzzo: a winter rose this morning

  • Not doing courses at the local university

    by JM

    photo, Aaron Siskind

    At the end of a lecture yesterday here at my local university, I was stuffing my exercise book with its hand-written notes into my little backpack, and a friendly young blade of a classmate started chatting :

    ” Good lecture, wasn’t it ? What degree course are you doing ? “

    I’m much older than my classmates, and am rediscovering that some of the young can be just as closed as any other age group, so I was happy that someone was asking.

    ” Well no course in particular. I just go to the subjects I like then find out which professors and timetable suit me and work from there. “

    ” Ah, so you’re not doing any exams or anything, just sitting in on classes ? That must be nice! “

    It certainly is.

    Yesterday I had three hours of the History of Photography as part of a Masters programme (not quite sure in what, but who cares, it was great) and then two hours watching the film Brick Lane in a media and communication class. A perfect morning with good professors, lovely views out of the classroom windows, and interested classmates.

    From the film Brick Lane (2007)

    It’s not only the note-taking (I rarely read the notes unless I’m stuck in traffic or something, and my bag is on the passenger seat ) or the non-exam-sitting that I enjoy, it’s being among people in the flesh and blood and focusing on the achievements of writers, artists and thinkers that liven me up…rather than rotting away mindlessly online.

    ( And now I’ve been often enough to the faculty café for them to serve up an espresso just as I like it as I walk in the door ).

    the rarely-read notes in the backpack

  • ‘Gorgeous chick’ at an Istanbul sushi party

    by JM

    Her opening line definitely had charm, also because it was just a little bit slurred, and she was dark and pretty and young.

    ” You look fun. I’ll sit beside you ! ”

    She squeezed her way past a rotund Ukrainian teacher sitting next to me, a Turkish plastic surgeon next to him, and a Canadian lawyer at the top of the table. This was in an upscale sushi restaurant in Istanbul 2 weeks ago, celebrating Caterina’s birthday. The lighting was low, the seating was rather cramped, and the noise level was high.

    ” Here we go ! “

    She lurched down beside me, not spilling her huge tumbler of cherry red alcohol and clacking ice cubes, and started chatting in rootless international English.

    ” I’m Ailiyah. Do you live here in Istanbul ? I just adore this city, don’t you ? I’m from Qatar, well, I was brought up in Qatar, but I’m not from there. My husband’s from California, he’s so sweet. And he’s cute and rich. People keep asking me, ‘what do you do, Aliyah? ‘ “

    She stirred her drink with its black plastic straw, laughed impishly, and sat closer, conspiratorial.

    ” When they keep asking me what my job is, I just tell them, ‘Well I’m totally in favour of independence and all, for women, but I’m smart. Look at me! I’m a gorgeous chick from the Middle East and we don’t do work. We get our men to do all that stuff . “

  • An AI-generated job interview (2)

    by JM

    As the interview progressed, the smooth sycophancy of the AI voice and its continual crooning became irksome. In response to my comments, it generated sentences like ” That’s a great answer, Jo “, ” Jo, that’s awesome ! I’d never thought of that” , ” An experienced educator like you, Jo, would be perfect for this special rôle.”

    Also, it was slow to catch onto things, so I started to lose interest in the experience within the first few minutes.

    But I was slow too, to understand that it was trying to direct me towards a specific task (critiquing the tone and register of a piece of written English, which must have been what it was recruiting candidates for). Once I obeyed its obsequious but insistent instructions and carried out the task, relations improved, and I found the whole thing quite intriguing.

    Meanwhile, here’s something for the patriarchy again – the image that I was presented with when I asked ChatGPT to create an illustration for the first part of this story. Try it out for yourself with your own writings, and you’ll get a masculine image, default mode even in 2025.

    It’s a man’s world in AI ..

  • AN AI-Generated job interview (1)

    by JM

    A few days ago I subjected myself to an AI-generated job interview. I still don’t really understand what the job was or is, but it was the experience of the interview itself that I wanted to try out.

    This type of interview has apparently been in use for at least 2 years now and it’s essentially just like a Zoom/video call, except instead of a person looking at you and speaking to you, the interview questions are generated in writing across the screen, and read out by an AI-generated voice, in my case, a cheesy male North American version. (more later )